You may of heard of Hebron, a site of occasional Israeli-Palestinian conflict. It's a ghetto town mostly, a Zone A area where about 160,000 Muslim Palestinians have been settled. If you live in a Zone A area, you are not able to move about the country freely (especially if you are a male under age 35). On the main street I saw many boarded up businesses, and it has become a ghetto town because so many of the men there have no access to employment.Our first stop was a ruin of a Byzantium era church that was built
by Helena at the site which was thought to be the Oak of Mamre where Sarah laughed (read Gen. 18:1-15). The site is amazing in that only the bottom-most structure remains. You can see where the nave of the ancient church was, and see the baptismal pool. Above the ancient site is one of the UN schools for boys. They were at recess, playing soccer. We talked about the anger these young men feel because of the situation of apartheid that seems so inescapable.
Next we went on to the site of the tombs of the patriarchs. We began on the Muslim side, which is called the Ibrahimi Mosque. The women were asked to don full robes (with hoods). It was hot, and although I was trying very hard to be culturally aware and respectful, I began to feel, for want of another word, oppressed. At that moment, I turned a corner and saw a large group of schoolchildren, boys and girls together, with a teacher and that anger left my heart. The space was so beautiful, the people so considerate. I felt at peace in my heart.
And then, our instructors pointed out to us the bullet holes that a Jewish terrorist left when he opened fire in 1994 when the people were at prayer. 29 Palestinians were killed WHILE AT PRAYER that day, and hundreds more in the riots that followed. If you have never heard of this vile act, you can read more about it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cave_of_the_Patriarchs_massacre
After we looked in Abraham, Sarah, Isaac and Rebecca's tomb, we left the mosque to go to the synagogue on the other side. You see, the building itself is split into a Jewish half and a Muslim half because both people share the same patriarchs and matriarchs. As our instructor Kamal pointed out, "that which separates us brings us together". Although, on the Jewish side we needed to go through security twice, and I counted a dozen armed guards at the entrance. The hospitality was far better, and the welcome more sincere, at the mosque.
It is interesting that both the groups have a good relationship with Christians. In general, Christians in Palestine are able to move between both groups. What does that mean for those who identify as Christian? Do we have a responsibility here to support non-violent peacemaking, reparations, and justice?
