Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Wet Pilgrims in the Old City

Here I sit trying to drip-dry for the rainstorm that caught us about 2 hours ago in the Christian quarter. Truly, we were more fortunate than the forecast was predicting and the day was mostly overcast, windy and cold.

How do I describe Old Jerusalem? Layers upon layers of history, art, religion and culture all smooshed together. Historically, the city was divided in the 19th century into four unequal quarters: Muslim, Christian, Armenian and Jewish. According to the Biblical record, the site was conquered by King David from the Jebusites in the 11th century BCE. From there, it has been occupied by Persians, Byzantines, Muslims, Crusaders... you get the picture.

Me, S & J at Damascus Gate
The college sits about a half mile from the Damascus Gate, one of eight current openings that provide access and it's an easy walk to get there. Once inside we walked through the Muslim quarter on our way to the entrance for the Al Aqsa Mosque. As Christians, we are not allowed inside the actual mosque building, but Father Kamal took us around and showed us the different parts of the plaza which can hold up to six million Muslims during Ramadan. Jerusalem is a lesser pilgrimage site for them, each Muslim man and woman is expected to make a Hajj to Mecca once in their lifetime. Many come to Jerusalem if they are not able to make the longer trip to Saudi Arabia.

The Knights Templars began their work in the middle ages on the site which is now a Mosque. Clark knows a lot more about their history than I do, and I wish he was here with me to experience this fascinating history. In Jesus' time part of the plaza was used as a marketplace, where pilgrims could change their money or purchase a lamb for the temple offering. Remember the story about Jesus turning over the tables?

Women's section, Western Wall
Then it was on to the Western (Wailing) Wall which is believed to be the last standing piece of the Second Temple. It is a sacred place where Jews (and others) go to slip tiny prayers into the wall in hopes that God will hear them. I was happy to take with me about twenty prayers of members of my congregation and place them in the wall. The area is partitioned into sections, one for the men and a (much) smaller one for the women. My friend Robbie says that's because men have so much more to be penitent for. I have to admit that praying alongside so many women was a tender moment for me.

Needle's Eye Gate
After a lovely lunch at the Lutheran Hostel, we were escorted into a Russian Orthodox church. When we entered, Sheryl and I had to put on wrap-around skirts (because women have no right to wear pants!) Here we saw two gates. One that was very large, that had been closed for a number of years. When it was open, it was the right size for a fully laden camel to pass through easily. Next to it was a little opening about 2 feet wide and four feet tall. In Jesus' day the camel gate would be closed at 5pm. People were allowed to come in, but they had to use the smaller opening next to it. Maybe you've picked it up by now... It is easier for a camel to go through the eye of a needle than a rich man to enter the kingdom. Wow.

We ended the day at the Church of the Resurrection. The high point of my day was when we prayed the Lord's prayer in our own languages as a group. Such a wonderful moment to be in that place with my brothers and sister, standing in the place where tradition holds Mary Magdalene first saw the Risen Christ. I did not get in line to see the tomb area or the Calvary site because I'd rather save that for tomorrow as the culmination of our stations of the cross. Besides, Jesus isn't there anyway.